Despite its rather drab and functional appearance, one of the best places for visitors to experience the vibrant folk traditions of the West Virginia mountains is ELKINS , the biggest town in northern West Virginia, which lies just west of the Canaan Valley. The Augusta Heritage Center , which is part of Davis and Elkins College at 100 Sycamore St (tel 304/637-1209), works to keep Appalachian cultural traditions alive in music, arts and crafts. Concerts and events are held throughout the summer, and there are celebrations of dulcimer-playing in April and fiddle music in October, but its major annual showcase is mid-August's Augusta Festival . This offers public workshops in such diverse down-home pursuits as banjo-playing, blacksmithing, quilt-making and folk dancing, and after dark, performers get together for a nightly hoedown, featuring storytellers, bluegrass bands and all-round good times.

Elkins' main visitor center (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am-6pm; tel 304/636-2717 or 1-800/422-3304, ), half a mile east of the town center at the intersection where US-33 starts to climb into the mountains, can provide full details on local accommodation , including several B&Bs, while the Super 8 , at the intersection of US-219 and US-250 (tel 304/636-6500 or 1-800/800-8000, ; $50-75), has inexpensive, clean motel rooms. The Starr Café and Augusta Bookshop , 224 Davis Ave (tel 304/636-7273), is a friendly place to stop off for a coffee or snack in the center of town.